Cadiz
Cadiz City View |
Cádiz
Cádiz is believed by many to be the oldest city in Spain. It was founded in 1100 BC by the Phoenicians, who were supplanted by the Carthaginians around 500 BC. In 206 BC Cádiz became federally allied with the Romans and it was, subsequently, granted Roman citizenship in 46 BC. Following the demise of the Romans in AD 400, the Visigoths ruled the city for just over 300 years. After the Battle of Guadalete in 711, a long period of Moorish rule began and, in fact, it wasn’t until 1262 that the city was finally reconquered by Alfonso X.
The Catholic Monarchs gave Cádiz the rights of monopoly of trade with Africa in 1493 and, on September 25 of the same year, Columbus set sail on the first of his two expeditions that originated from Cádiz. His fourth voyage departed from this port nine years later. During the next century, Cádiz suffered the effects of warfare on more than one occasion. In 1587 Sir Francis Drake attacked the Spanish fleet in Cádiz harbor and, in 1596, an Anglo-Dutch fleet attacked destroying a large part of the city.
Better times were on the horizon, however. In 1717 the Casa de Contratación, the rights of monopoly of trade with the Americas (which were previously granted, in 1503, to Seville) was transferred to Cádiz by order of Felipe V, thus beginning a period of economic expansion. Cádiz’s most important contribution to recent Spanish history occurred in 1812 while the city was under siege by Napoleon’s troops. The national parliament met at the Oratori St. Felipe Neri on March 19 and proclaimed the first Spanish Constitution.
As is evident throughout the city, much of the history of Cádiz is maritime related, due, naturally, to its peculiar geographical location. It lies at the end of a long promontory that curls around from, and runs parallel to, the Spanish mainland. This not only forms a natural harbor but leaves the city very closely surrounded by water on three sides. Directly opposite Cádiz on the mainland is the charming city of El Puerto de Santa María, and a neat way of getting there and back is on the El Vapor del El Puerto ferry boat that sets sail from Cádiz harbour.
Places of Interest
The towering façade of the Cathedral Catedral dominates in these parts of Cádiz. The original cathedral, built in 1260 and that burnt down in 1596, was on this site. Work on this one was initiated by Vicente Acero, who also built the cathedral in Granada, in 1776 but after he left other architects followed and it took another 116 years to complete. As a result, The exterior is, to say the least, unusual, two round, dome topped, towers reflect two divergent architectural styles, Baroque and Classical, which evidences the prolonged construction period. A comprehensive restoration in the late 20th century left the interior with a feeling of spaciousness and openness uncommon in Spanish cathedrals. The Cathedral Museum Museo Catedralicio is not overly large, but has on display some interesting and valuable religious art, notably a monstrance by Enrique de Arfe. Open Mon-Fri 10-1:30 and 4:30-7, Sat 10-1; small admission fee.
Church of Saint Cueva Oratorio de la Santa Cueva, Rosario 10, is definitely high on the list of places to be visited, and it is a curious and unusual place indeed. The underground chapels date from 1783 and, although they contain many works of artistic interest they are, as basements tend to be, rather damp and dingy. The simple and the ornate, though, mix uneasily in the domed upper chapel, which was added in 1796. The ceiling of the dome is adorned by five spectacular paintings, three of which are by Goya. Open mid-Jun-mid-Sep Mon 10:30-1 and 5-8, Tue-Fri 10-1 and 5-8, Sat/Sun 10-1, other times of the year Tue-Fri10-1 and 4:30-7:30, Sat/Sun 10-1; small admission fee.
Church of Saint Philip Neri Oratorio de San Felipe Neri; Santa Inés s/n. Built between 1685 and 1719, this structure features a most attractive elliptical design accented by towering columns and an imposing dome. It was here, in 1812, that the parliament sat while composing the country’s first constitution. Open Mon-Sat 10-1; small admission fee.
Women’s Hospital Hospital de Mujeres; Calle Hospital de Mujeres. Dating from 1749, this is easily recognizable, just look for its huge wooden gates. Inside, there is a classic patio and a chapel containing numerous works of art, including a notable El Greco. Open Mon-Fri 10-1; small entrance fee.
Places to Eat
Restaurante El Faro, Calle San Félix, 15; t 956 211 068. Found near the southern tip of the La Viña district of the old city, is an institution here. Though renowned for its esoteric range of exotic seafood dishes it, of course, imaginatively prepares the more well-known varieties as well.
Ventorrillo el Chato, Ctra. de Cádiz a San Fernando, Km 687; t 956 250 025; is found just outside Cádiz on the isthmus connecting Cádiz to San Fernando. Full of character, this restaurant has an attractive Andalucian style rustic dining room. Andalucian style cuisine too, with very typical stews, fish and meat from the mountains, with mouth watering desserts and fine wines.
Restaurante El Sardinero, Plaza San Juan de Dios, 5; t 956 265 926; has been delighting diners in Cádiz for many years. It is a good choice if you are looking for a mix of Andaluz and Basque cuisine and, weather permitting, you may dine outdoors.
Really, there is just one specialty here – seafood, and in all its possible guises. If you are not in the mood for a formal meal, you might choose to pay a visit to one of the several little shops in the area, which are sometimes combined with a small and basic restaurant. Just choose what you fancy and it will be wrapped up for you to take away.
Tourist Offices
The tourist office, Paseo de Canalejas s/n, t 956 241 001, open summer Mon-Fri 9-7, Sat/Sun/hols 9-5, winter Mon-Fri 8:30-6:30.
Getting There
From Carmona the E-5/A-4 and follow it through Sevilla all the way south to its end. Then follow the N-443 into Cádiz. A trip of about 157 kms.